Hong Kong Deli

The first time I ate in the nearly empty Hong Kong Deli, I did so thinking I was ignoring my better judgment. Usually a restaurant without patrons is empty for a reason. Maybe it was the dim lighting, so rare for a Chinese restaurant, or maybe the convenient location on Cahuenga Boulevard almost next door to the Hotel Cafe that has kept me coming back. On a recent visit, a large bowl of wonton soup was enough for three of us to share, the fragrant, clear chicken broth and savory wontons a perfect starter course. Kung Pao beef (pictured) wouldn't have been a selection I would have normally chosen but was my favorite on a recent night. The beef was lean and tender, in a spicy sauce with the crunchy peanuts I love. Chicken with broccoli was a hit. Even the sushi which my independent-minded friend Mary insisted on ordering seemed to be first rate. (I admit, I've had the hankering and ordered it before too.) Hong Kong Deli must surely be doing a booming business in take-out or delivery since there are still rarely more than a few tables full of people. But for no-frills American-Chinese standards (and the occasional piece of albacore), it really can't be beat.

Hong Kong Deli
1643 N Cahuenga Blvd
(323) 957-1998

La Taquiza

Confused as to why the Natural History Museum was dark and empty last Friday night when we were looking for a DJ and the Deerhoof show, (apparently they call it First Fridays for a reason; the next event is June 1st), that provided just the opportunity to stop by for a taco or two at an old haunt from my days at USC. Tortillas are patted out fresh by hand and a spit of meat roasts as you order at the counter. We sampled al pastor, grilled shrimp as well as fish tacos. All were great but tasted even better slathered in fresh avacado salsa that you can help yourself to at the bar. La Taquiza may be one of the brighter spot on the culinary map around USC but it's not all that shines on Figueroa--be sure to check out the fantastic Felix the Cat neon sign for the old Chevy dealer across the street, it's something of a local landmark.

La Taquiza
3026 S Figueroa St
Los Angeles
(213) 747-4849

Momofuku Noodle Bar

So it's raining and cold, you're starving, and you've already been waiting half an hour for seats together to open up at Momofuku. Do you continue to press your face against the window or rush straight into the Italian pastry shop on the same corner and gorge on gelato and biscotti? Luckily our patience eventually pays off and we figured out why Momofuku is worth the wait. Marinated baby octopi, tender little things, started us off. I'm generally not a fan of octopus but these were as delicious as any I've ever had. The Momofuku Ramen is served in a huge bowl with a fragrant broth topped off with slices of roasted Berkshire pork belly, shredded pork, fresh English peas, chopped scallions and a soft-poached egg. It's rich and satisfying this night. The chocolate and pistachio gelato next door turned out to be worth the wait too, and a perfect way to top off our meal.

Momofuku
163 1st Ave
New York
(212) 475-7899

Elite Restaurant

Yes, the dim sum at Elite Restaurant is as good as they say. We even saw Jonathan Gold himself there today, photographer and kids in tow. (Will he follow S.Irene's lead on this one and write it up in next week's LA Weekly? Stay tuned.) We were also lucky enough to end up sitting next to a friendly fellow who insisted that we order the savory pancakes. Excellent choice as it turns out, and as the bustling new restaurant's owner, he should know. In fact, everything (minus the hour and a half wait for a table) was excellent--the shrimp har gow, the Macau roasted pork, the buttery and delicate baked scallop dumplings, even the sea cucumber and bamboo pith dim sum. By the time we were seated close to 2:30, the kitchen was out of the famouse shark fin and red clam dumplings which greatly disappointed some at our table. But on a positive note, it's all the more reason to return for dim sum at Elite another day.

Elite Restaurant
700 S. Atlantic Blvd
Monterey Park
(626) 282-9998

Yuca's

Saturday is tamale day at Yuca's, as if you needed another reason to stand in the parking lot of a liquor store on Hillhurst waiting for your lunch to be handed to you wrapped in tinfoil and served in a brown paper bag. Having recently sampled the cochinita pibil at Loteria Grill and Chitzen Itza, I confirmed what I had been thinking all along--Yuca's does it best. Of course everyone knows this by now (they won a James Beard award a few years ago for gosh sakes), but sometimes it's nice to have a reminder, especially with a fresh hot cochinita pibil burrito (no beans please). Dora was nowhere to be seen on this particular Saturday afternoon visit. When asked where she was, Socorro said she's been so busy, preparing as they are to appear on the Oprah show on Monday. Set your Tivo, Oprah is coming to Los Feliz.

Yuca's
2056 Hillhurst Ave.
Los Feliz
(323) 662-1214